The Pinnacle of Covered Girl Couture: Happening Now!

The shift in the past several years is undeniable. Some say it's the lure of handsome payback from the infamously affluent Middle Eastern markets. Others say there was simply no other direction left for fashion to go. Whatever the reason, the change in direction is officially here to stay... for now.

Big wigs like Valentino shifted to demure couture gowns due to all that disposable income up for grabs in conservative global markets (the purchase of the luxury label by Qatari royalty also probably had something to do with it), and several others have made similar changes to their designs. But you know the modesty trend has officially arrived when Karl Lagerfeld, arguably the most influential individual in the fashion world, chose to host his highly anticipated Chanel cruise show in the unexpected locale of Dubai earlier in the month. The event extracted the who's who of fashion out to the Middle East, an elaborate smorsgaboard ranging from A-list Hollywood actresses to Saudi princesses, as well as a healthy range on the modesty scale of locals donning everything from abayas to minis under one roof with zero judgement.  Lagerfeld delivered a collection of covered yet flattering cuts likened to the traditional shalwar kameez of the subcontinent, with his long, flowy tunics and slim pants adorned with much more pomp, print, and bling than the usual classic Chanel designs. 

Who would've guessed this is Chanel?

And as if that weren't enough, Kim Kardashian, reality tv's bombshell notorious for her risque fashion choices as much as for her volatile love life, shocked the world last weekend with her elegant, and for the most part, covered Givenchy gown for her third set of nuptials in Versailles. The dress featured a sky-scraping neckline up to her neck (no decollatege or even a more subtly alluring collarbone in sight!), full sleeves to the wrists, and a floor-length hemline with an unadorned, simple veil. The verdict? Even average Joes on Instagram contended that Kim looked equal parts, if not much, much more beautiful than in her past revealing apparatus. 

Some of the very few public images of their big day. Even Kimye's photo coverage was modest!

 Love her or hate her, her heavy influence in the mainstream fashion and beauty sphere is undeniable

There have been small victories along the journey, paving the way for these big wins for team modesty. Last year, Christian fashion week made history by marketing its controversial wish shrewdly as a dare: "We are looking for designers who want to challenge themselves to create art without the crutch of sexuality. We fully understand that sex sells. But for the everyday woman, sexuality is not the dominant quality she wants to exhibit. She is a force to be reckoned with beyond the visuals of her anatomy. She is fierce and demands attention with her strength, intelligence, and grace. Now, THAT is sexy."

So it's official. Us full-time restrained folks can relax a little bit in our hoarding of maxi's and long tees as if they will disappear from stores tomorrow. Doesn't look like they will be slipping from our grasp anytime soon now that the rest of the world is in our little thing. Hopefully it's a significant matter of time before hemlines start rising and necklines start plunging all across the board once again. Atleast we'll have our closets brimming with full-sleeved goddess dresses and breezily chic palazzo pants to fall back on when this discreet stage in the fashion cycle comes to its inevitable end. 

Nope, not Junaid Jamshed! Those double C's are somewhere on there

Written by Saba Ali of Style by Design - Image Consulting

(Images are not mine. But aren't they great?)

Ethical, Sustainable and Up-To-The-Minute: Spotlight on Ishi Vest

It’s incomparably rare for an individual to merge his passion, family, livelihood, and deep-rooted desire to leave an outright impact on the world, into one neat little package. But United For Service alum Harish I. Patel, founder of Ishi Vest, is not one to simply bank on his good fortune – he takes it all in stride with a healthy dose of gratitude. “Going back to India every summer actually gives me the opportunity to spend quality time with my mother, “ professes the Gujarat-born social entrepreneur whose ambition stems from the avidity to do business with an unusually high standard for materials and process. Noted for starting the company after he was repeatedly catechized about the pragmatic bohemian vest he was sporting after a recent trip to India, Patel is a trendsetter in several senses. Embodying the traits UFS looks to instill in its volunteers from the get go, he has exhibited empathy, leadership, and hands-on problem-solving prowess throughout his life as a Muslim-American with one foot set firmly in his native land. His visits abroad over the years on various service-related expeditions, including Aid to India and United for Service in 2010, planted the seed of action in his mind around the disconcerting issues he grappled with during his travels, most notably that of the tragic farmer suicides. 

“It’s a huge issue in India, “ contends Patel, who was particularly affected after meeting the widows and children of these farmers. “Textile comes from farming, which is heavily reliant on insecticides, pesticides and harsh dyes that are not only harmful for the environment and consumers, but exorbitantly priced for the farmers.” The workers pay for supplies which initially produce a high yield, but then leave them with lower returns, excessive debt, and hazardous health issues, all eventually leading to the staggering number of suicides (a number Patel feels is minimized by the Indian government). Troubled after witnessing this first hand and aware of the demand for his own cotton vest in the States, Patel thought to launch a social venture that could help empower the victims (and those like them) he had met. “I don’t believe in simply handing over money – I’d much rather invest in a way that will keep giving.” Patel, who had once considered a career as a doctor, states, “My work is my identity and I want to be on the right side of things.” And righting wrongs is what he set his mind towards – his Kickstarter campaign has been successful in promoting Ishi Vest as an ethical organization which seeks to level the playing field of labor and safety standards in the industry.

Patel doesn’t claim to know much about fashion, but when pressed about the looks he reveres, the answer is quite telling. “Bold and stately – Nehru, Malcolm X – these men were confident in where they came from yet still looked the part of the sharp leader. They were cultural translators in a sense”. It’s no surprise Ishi’s main product boasts the iconic “Nehru” collar, a term coined by the leader’s signature jackets which were christened as high-fashion chic in the most coveted powerhouses of couture decades ago. “I have a designer in-house to take care of that side of things,” he laughs, referring to the team who helped him fine tune his single introductory product, the men’s vest, as a crucial part of his simple yet potent business model. The women’s version was added to the lineup just a few weeks ago, and he says the brand plans to dip its toes into the lucrative pond of kids wear, all the way down to infant swaddle blankets. 

Patel doesn’t seem to have time for much besides his ingrained commitments, as there are several. Aside from running Ishi Vest with co-founder Jackie Mahendra, he is pursuing a Masters in Urban Planning at the University of Illinois at Chicago. Patel also helped start Chicago Votes, a non-profit dedicated to engaging, educating, and training a young generation of leaders in the political arena. In addition, he works at UIC, helping to develop a department for Diaspora Studies, which will focus on immigration, war, and climate change.

“I don’t want to bring a child into a world with so much messed up in it,” states Patel. With so many noteworthy causes on his resume and plenty more promising projects in the works, his conscience can rest assured that he is doing his part in making that happen. 

Saba Ali is a writer, blogger and the founder of Style By Design – Image Consulting (SBD), a venture specializing in style and fashion consulting, career image consultation, and overall personal design. She has worked with clients from all walks of life, and has been featured in various publications. Find her work on her blog, Facebook, and on Instagram 

Fashion Week F/W 14: A Breakdown for the Everyday Gal

The stars aligned this year and I made it out to Mercedes Benz Fashion week in New York City. Although I'd been to a few shows several years back as a guest, it's a little different being there as a credentialed attendee. Access to designers' PR, lounging in the infamous vendor-laden tents (although a little dry this year compared to previous ones), and the opportunity to attend show after show and absorb all the different collections was not just physically but mentally overstimulating - in a great way. Add to that being constantly surrounded by celebs (while maintaining a poker face), figuring out what to wear at the height of the Polar Vortex, attempting to document or atleast photograph each moment, remembering to eat..let's just say it was an exhausting week!

My peek at how the shows are executed seamlessly - a model board backstage at Rebecca Minkoff

The Instagram Wall - a constantly changing collage showcasing all pics hashtagged #mbfw

Waiting was worth it :)

My take on the new styles? There was a common theme of added color and texture, more than the typical, repetitive fall/winter collections past. Designers seem to be layering on the notions of colored leather, multiple textures (feather and fur as prime examples at Nicole Miller) and techni-hues by combining several of these concepts into one, wearable outfit.

A plethora of fall colors, prints, furs, and embossed leather at Nicole Miller - the designer who once showcased her work on Linda, Christy, and Naomi (aka the Big Three). Spotted: Daisy Fuentes, Carrie Preston, Rachael Harris, Olivia Culpo, the Lohans

In the ridiculously fast-paced world of fashion, what was once considered too high-brow or out-there for the average woman to wear in real, everyday life is morphing into the mainstream lineup faster than ever.

These once over-the-top notions of exaggerated menswear, boxy shapes, multi-color leather and fur, futuristic fabrics and silhouettes, all open the door to trying a bit of it all on a smaller scale in real life without looking like a runway caricature.

Up-and-coming Russian designer Katya Leonovich showcases strength in tailoring with these futuristic designs - the movement of which were striking in person. (Not a great collection to take on in real life - these looks are definitely best left to the runway!)

More color, print, and fur at Saunder

 Leather, fur, accordian pleats, and bling at a more approachable Pamella Roland - a visually stunning collection said to be inspired by the architecture of New York city. Front row faves: Nigel Barker, Miss J Alexander, Michelle Hicks, Lydia Hearst

Not a fan of Dennis Basso's theatrical designs, I enjoyed being in close proximity to his front row lineup much more - Olivia Palermo, Debra Messing, Carol Alt, Mary J. Blige, and Andre Leon Talley 

Just a few of Basso's front row guests

So if you are often intimidated by what you see on the runway - this is for you.  If you never thought you could do fur - try a small, neutral touch in camel or the always safe-yet-chic black. If you were afraid to mix prints or textures- try it out on a less sensational level by using a smaller scale and a neutral color pallette.  Afraid of volume? Get over it! :) Every single collection boasted something or other in a boxy cut, menswear inspired or otherwise. The trend is here to stay.

Alexander Wang - need I say more?

Always remember, the eye gets accustomed to the new and the bold. Keep moving forward in an attempt to stay modern and current. In an age of democratic, fast fashion, where new styles are now accessible to anyone and everyone vs. only those in fashion's main capitals - take advantage of living in an era where you have the current and coveted at your fingertips!

Soo Joo opened for Rebecca Minkoff donning a boxy coat, buttery leather, fur details, subtle print, and a wee splash of color while looking perfectly effortless and on trend - not over the top!  This picture exemplifies my point beautifully: don't be scared to pile on different textures and trends! When done correctly, it can yield great results!

Want more from NYFW? Check out my posts and tidbits on Instagram: @sbd_style

Mirror Imaging: My Recent Venture

Twenty thirteen wrapped up in a blur, and the year brought in some fun assignments that pushed me into newer, more different territory. I don't blog about the majority of my assignments,  namely due to lack of time, but also out of respect for client confidentiality, etc, etc. Still, I thought I'd share a recent client job that was invaluable and taught me the a few lessons on photographic interpretation, setting realistic expectations, and my least favorite aspect of all...pricing for clients.

This particular person sent me a photograph proclaiming deep, married love for an outfit she spotted in a magazine, and asked me to find it for her asap. She loved it so much she wanted it NOW, not necessarily for an event, but from pure unadulterated adoration and the unwillingness to be distanced from such coveted resplendence any longer. Can't say I blame her - when I get obsessed over a picture or the idea of something, my mind can hardly rest until I've figured out a plan to get the thing in my hands (in this case, I was "the plan").   After I broke it to her that it was possible, but would require a bit of time and thought to set up a reasonable budget then actually hunt, she very sweetly obliged. Hence, I was launched into a search for some unique, individual pieces broken down from the original photograph she sent over:

Skirt: Tommy Hilfiger

Sweater: Michael Kors

Vest: Ohne Titel

Bag: Chanel

The ensemble was comprised of four key parts: skirt, sweater, vest, and boots.  Based on these elements, the client and I came up with a budget of $150, with a bit of wiggle room just in case. Despite the cushion, I was determined to find her the 'fit within budget. If anything was left over I told her we could do shoes and/or accessories as an added bonus. So...

TOTAL BUDGET: $150

Item 1: Pleated Gray Maxi Skirt

Brand Originally Pictured: Tommy Hilfiger

Brand Purchased: Garnet Hill

Challenge Level: MEDIUM

I asked the client if she was absolutely sold on the gunmetal color (which I too loved)  - the answer was yes. The challenge came in due to season, as the pleated maxi skirt is usually a spring/summer item, and here we were in November trying to pull this look together. The movement and texture from the picture implied a wooly material, and the pleated maxi usually comes in more of a breezy chiffon fabric. Still, I hunted high and low...mostly online. The skirts that came closest in texture were all designer pieces, with price tags triple to quadruple the amount of our TOTAL budget. We got so close as to find a consignment version of the Tommy Hilfiger original, but the size was off.  So I found the next best thing, which came in chiffon at garnethill.com. It wasn't exactly the same, so we deliberated for a few days, but then I came across a 20% percent off coupon with free shipping and took it as a sort of omen to bite the bullet.   Looks like a midi in this pic, but is definitely a maxi:
http://www.garnethill.com/pleated-maxi-skirt/306940

Item 2: Hip Length Black Sweater

Brand in Picture: Michael Kors

Brand Purchased: HM

Challenge Level: LOW

This was the item I was least worried about. The sweater needed to be slim fit, hip length, and of decent quality. A quick run to my local mall proved fruitful, but sizing was tricky because this client didn't come with me (I HATE shopping....said no woman ever? WRONG. This client did)...so I ended up making two runs to exchange. What is up with sizes these days? If someone of my build can fit into smalls and extra smalls, how are the tiny petite women of the world not swimming in all this oversized nonsense? Boxier, menswear-inspired silhouettes recently seem to have shifted the tides of sizing...but I'm not complaining. It's great for MY self esteem, but when I can't figure out what size to put my small-boned client in...it can be sketchy. I ended up getting a small, which ended up being too big. Doh. Back to the store. Story of my life. :)

Item 3:  Fur-trimmed Black Vest

Brand in Picture: Ohne Titel

Brand(s) Purchased: Target (vest) and Amazon.com (stole)

Challenge Level: HIGH

Like most women of my generation, my client is pretty particular about what she will and won't do. And she won't normally don fur. Yet this picture evoked a pretty furry fantasy in both our heads that we'd find the perfect subtle, understated piece which would blend into the background of the aforementioned sweater. I found plenty of items in the higher-end range which were once again out of budget, so the challenge lay in finding a mid-to-lower priced item that still retained the luxe feel the photo induced. Since cropped black vests come mostly in leather, there were very few non-leather items on the market that worked and didn't require shipment from China. As a last resort, I ended up finding a longer black vest and peppering it with a black fur stole. Not exactly the same, but close.

Vest: http://www.target.com/p/mossimo-reg-women-s-asymmetrical-zip-scuba-vest-black/-/A-14747941#prodSlot=medium_1_3&term=black+vest

Stole: http://www.amazon.com/Trendy-Winter-Scarf-Collar-Shawl/dp/B00EAGTROU/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1389241598&sr=8-18&keywords=black+fur+stole

Item 4: Some Sort of Dark Chunky Boot

Brand in Picture: Unknown

Challenge Level: Low

I had told the client this would be the lowest priority item on our list, meaning if after purchasing all our other items we had enough left, we'd go for the boots. In the end we didn't, but I had still whittled it down to a basic combat boot in my head (can anyone find me a retailer that DOESN'T carry combat boots right now? I didn't think so. They are everywhere, on everyone from 3rd-grade girls to 40+ year old women). One quick trip to Target would have sufficed, but I didn't end up needing to go.

                                         

Bag and Accessories - out of budget (womp womp)

Brand in Picture: Chanel (ya, not happening)

In the end -  given budget, seasonal constraints, and the time crunch - we came pretty darn close. As close as possible in my book, without breaking the bank. You be the judge (I should've ran the fan over my mannequin to get the same "blowing-in-the-breeze" effect for my photograph...live and learn!):

                         

Written by Saba Ali of Style By Design (SBD) - Image Consulting

Please gear any questions or comments towards my email - stylebydesign.sbd@gmail.com....merci beaucoup for reading! And Happy New Year!

Oh Snap! It's Cold

"Lover's Knot" Stitch

With the cold front in full force for the past week or so, staying functional (AKA warm) has finally become a sort of mindless daily routine. Like most native Californians, I don't "do" cold effortlessly. From what I'm craving and cooking to how I get out my door in the frost-ridden mornings,  it always takes a bit of thought and conscious effort initially.  While I love the freezing temperatures as a sort of fashion novelty, with twenty-degree temperatures and all their unforgiving repercussions now my daily reality,  I can honestly say I'm finally understanding why people from the east coast look at me sideways when I gush inconsiderately about loving wintertime.

Still, with my fireplace now at the official pinnacle of its glory,  and my choice gloves and scarves in accessible cache next to my front door, I'm quite enjoying myself. Maybe it's because I get to wear my fall/winter favorites in fair rotation without a second thought (ALL day versus mornings and nights) I've finally gleaned a sensible clothing routine that keeps me satisfied, reminiscent of festive holidays spent huddling in the quaint cafes of Greenwich or at the northern mouth of the whirling steps of the Arc du Triomphe - travel layers that are now my startling reality. 

Winter in The Village

So what makes up the cold snap equation? The sum of the parts most certainly includes wool or similar materials meant for freezing temps - put those fine knits away if you haven't yet and reach for cable knits and densely blended sweaters,  just the looks of which would make you sweat on a warm summer day. East coast staples usually foreign to Californians - long socks, puffer vests, scarves, mittens, and beanies - are easy, affordable pieces that can transition your wardrobe into more cold-friendly territory if like most locals, you haven't invested in heavy-duty outerwear. Body-hugging items like skinny jeans, long wooly socks, knit turtlenecks and long sleeved-tees should form a base (repeat daily if you must, but wash often!) which to layer these winter wonders atop of.  And if you're always freezing like me, current trends in oversized menswear-style coats and jackets allow for us to graciously sneak additional layers under our winter finery. 

      The Quintessential Winter Travel Uniform

If you are in the market for one easy piece of outerwear to throw on in order to tackle all your Arctic woes, shop quickly before inventory runs bleak in stores and you're left digging thru sizes too large or small. Fall/Winter apparel took a beating during Black Friday sales and supplies continue to dwindle. I'm not one to push for seasonal sales/mania but with the daily haggle of what to wear mentioned in conversation with everyone from my mother to my mailman these days, I'm thinking it may be time for some folks to throw in the towel and actually purchase a (gasp!) coat for Cali.

Oh Snap! It's Cold :) by stylebydesign-sbd featuring camo beanie hats

Joules sport shirt
$115 - johnlewis.com

Plus size crochet top
etsy.com

Topshop striped t shirt
topshop.com

Gérard Darel grey overcoat
$655 - johnlewis.com

Paige Denim super skinny jeans
farfetch.com

Hunter low-heel boots
shoescribe.com

Reiss leather shoulder bag
reiss.com

Juicy couture glove
juicycouture.com

Camo beanie hat
karmaloop.com

VILA tube scarf
$31 - vila.com

Here's a little something to help: three more days until H&M's deal on all outerwear in-store only (a full 50% off!) expires. This deal is NOT being advertised in stores so you will need to mention it in person to benefit. (No, I don't get commission from H&M, just wanted to share a little something with all of you, lovely readers, from the holiday-induced-yet-still-genuine-depths of my freezing heart). If you are able to resist fast-fashion and have issues shopping at chains like H&M, good luck elsewhere and I also mean this very sincerely...more power to you. Cheers!

. 

P.S. Upon a quick search for more options, I hilariously found that Forever21, H&M's arch nemisis-ish fast-fashion foe, is also offering the exact same deal (surprise!). Their pitch, however, is only offered online and doesn't seem to be populating the actual outerwear on the site (check the tiny gray print at the bottom of the image below). Please join me in laughing sinisterly at the retail industry and the deals they attempt but can't seem to deliver on even if we are all helplessly reliant on them to dress ourselves. Tis the season! 

Questions? Comments? Post below or email us at stylebydesign.sbd@gmail.com

Isabel Marant for H&M: The Review

Going, going.....gone! Overpriced and overhyped, Isabel Marant's collection for H&M drew shoppers by the hoards in the past 12 hours. I opted to check out the collection from the snuggly comfort of my home this foggy November morning versus lining up on the cold streets of the SF flagship store (really, was there even a question about which option I would go with?)

The verdict? Though there were a few notable pieces that had caught my eye from the previews, the prices, along with the sordid fact that each distinct item will be instantly recognizable by anyone in the know,  helped me refrain from shopping like a maniac.  Now in hindsight, after reading about all the chaos ensuing and having experienced the virtual shoppers' mania this morning,  I can see how the collection is just one pricey example of the sheep-shopper phenomenon retailers are banking on these days.

Molly Sims with a little insanity in her arms (and eyes)

Yet DESPITE my rational brain telling me to refrain, I did manage to score a little something by being pre-registered and having my credit card number already in the system. Upon entering hm.com, I was held in a queue shortly before being let loose to shop. I quickly added random items to my cart (just because I still could), but before I had time to think twice about whether I really wanted those items, they were snatched from my cart by fellow virtual shoppers. H&M was NOT reserving items in carts, so quick checkouts were encouraged and in the end, absolutely necessary to successfully purchase anything.

Maybe it was the fact that I skipped straight to the kids section (vs. womens) for a 14+ sized cardigan that had jumped out to me in the preview (it reminded me of the real Marant sweater I've been eyeballing for over a year and featured on my blog back in the spring), or maybe it was my rational brain telling me that those $300 boots looked like they had been churned out by Cathy Jean and that I could in fact score real Marant for a similar price if I simply hunted online ($399 for a beaded H&M jacket? No thanks!), but I was not too impressed.

$300 at H&M, they now have 88 bids at $623 for eBay Bulgaria. Really people?! Go buy real Marant at these prices! 

The collection is certainly chic and representative of the cool-girl Parisian aesthetic Marant is famous for, but from a shopper's perspective, it's just not worth it.  Blame it on the recent comparable hype of Target's 3.1 Phillip Lim collection which drew people in similar flocks, launching countless resales on ebay and craigslist. The pieces that caught my eye then are now featured on every other blog and instantly recognizable by people on street (that hideous polyestery leopard print and the BOOM sweatshirt, for example), and all this takes more than a bit of the novelty away. Hence I'm perfectly happy with my single strategic purchase this morning (which was based on previous knowledge of the brand versus buyer's impulse - trying to practice what I preach by shopping wisely) and even more comforted by H&M's return policy in the event that it doesn't live up to my expectations :)

The real Marant sweater from my blog on Transitional Chic....

...and the H&M version I purchased online this morn. We'll see how it measures up once I receive it!

P.S. There are over 1300 items already listed on eBay, with bids running for 2-3 times the original price. Yikes!

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.Xmarant+hm&_nkw=marant+hm&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Looks like Black Friday insanity has officially commenced!

xoxo