The Pinnacle of Covered Girl Couture: Happening Now!

The shift in the past several years is undeniable. Some say it's the lure of handsome payback from the infamously affluent Middle Eastern markets. Others say there was simply no other direction left for fashion to go. Whatever the reason, the change in direction is officially here to stay... for now.

Big wigs like Valentino shifted to demure couture gowns due to all that disposable income up for grabs in conservative global markets (the purchase of the luxury label by Qatari royalty also probably had something to do with it), and several others have made similar changes to their designs. But you know the modesty trend has officially arrived when Karl Lagerfeld, arguably the most influential individual in the fashion world, chose to host his highly anticipated Chanel cruise show in the unexpected locale of Dubai earlier in the month. The event extracted the who's who of fashion out to the Middle East, an elaborate smorsgaboard ranging from A-list Hollywood actresses to Saudi princesses, as well as a healthy range on the modesty scale of locals donning everything from abayas to minis under one roof with zero judgement.  Lagerfeld delivered a collection of covered yet flattering cuts likened to the traditional shalwar kameez of the subcontinent, with his long, flowy tunics and slim pants adorned with much more pomp, print, and bling than the usual classic Chanel designs. 

Who would've guessed this is Chanel?

And as if that weren't enough, Kim Kardashian, reality tv's bombshell notorious for her risque fashion choices as much as for her volatile love life, shocked the world last weekend with her elegant, and for the most part, covered Givenchy gown for her third set of nuptials in Versailles. The dress featured a sky-scraping neckline up to her neck (no decollatege or even a more subtly alluring collarbone in sight!), full sleeves to the wrists, and a floor-length hemline with an unadorned, simple veil. The verdict? Even average Joes on Instagram contended that Kim looked equal parts, if not much, much more beautiful than in her past revealing apparatus. 

Some of the very few public images of their big day. Even Kimye's photo coverage was modest!

 Love her or hate her, her heavy influence in the mainstream fashion and beauty sphere is undeniable

There have been small victories along the journey, paving the way for these big wins for team modesty. Last year, Christian fashion week made history by marketing its controversial wish shrewdly as a dare: "We are looking for designers who want to challenge themselves to create art without the crutch of sexuality. We fully understand that sex sells. But for the everyday woman, sexuality is not the dominant quality she wants to exhibit. She is a force to be reckoned with beyond the visuals of her anatomy. She is fierce and demands attention with her strength, intelligence, and grace. Now, THAT is sexy."

So it's official. Us full-time restrained folks can relax a little bit in our hoarding of maxi's and long tees as if they will disappear from stores tomorrow. Doesn't look like they will be slipping from our grasp anytime soon now that the rest of the world is in our little thing. Hopefully it's a significant matter of time before hemlines start rising and necklines start plunging all across the board once again. Atleast we'll have our closets brimming with full-sleeved goddess dresses and breezily chic palazzo pants to fall back on when this discreet stage in the fashion cycle comes to its inevitable end. 

Nope, not Junaid Jamshed! Those double C's are somewhere on there

Written by Saba Ali of Style by Design - Image Consulting

(Images are not mine. But aren't they great?)

Ethical, Sustainable and Up-To-The-Minute: Spotlight on Ishi Vest

It’s incomparably rare for an individual to merge his passion, family, livelihood, and deep-rooted desire to leave an outright impact on the world, into one neat little package. But United For Service alum Harish I. Patel, founder of Ishi Vest, is not one to simply bank on his good fortune – he takes it all in stride with a healthy dose of gratitude. “Going back to India every summer actually gives me the opportunity to spend quality time with my mother, “ professes the Gujarat-born social entrepreneur whose ambition stems from the avidity to do business with an unusually high standard for materials and process. Noted for starting the company after he was repeatedly catechized about the pragmatic bohemian vest he was sporting after a recent trip to India, Patel is a trendsetter in several senses. Embodying the traits UFS looks to instill in its volunteers from the get go, he has exhibited empathy, leadership, and hands-on problem-solving prowess throughout his life as a Muslim-American with one foot set firmly in his native land. His visits abroad over the years on various service-related expeditions, including Aid to India and United for Service in 2010, planted the seed of action in his mind around the disconcerting issues he grappled with during his travels, most notably that of the tragic farmer suicides. 

“It’s a huge issue in India, “ contends Patel, who was particularly affected after meeting the widows and children of these farmers. “Textile comes from farming, which is heavily reliant on insecticides, pesticides and harsh dyes that are not only harmful for the environment and consumers, but exorbitantly priced for the farmers.” The workers pay for supplies which initially produce a high yield, but then leave them with lower returns, excessive debt, and hazardous health issues, all eventually leading to the staggering number of suicides (a number Patel feels is minimized by the Indian government). Troubled after witnessing this first hand and aware of the demand for his own cotton vest in the States, Patel thought to launch a social venture that could help empower the victims (and those like them) he had met. “I don’t believe in simply handing over money – I’d much rather invest in a way that will keep giving.” Patel, who had once considered a career as a doctor, states, “My work is my identity and I want to be on the right side of things.” And righting wrongs is what he set his mind towards – his Kickstarter campaign has been successful in promoting Ishi Vest as an ethical organization which seeks to level the playing field of labor and safety standards in the industry.

Patel doesn’t claim to know much about fashion, but when pressed about the looks he reveres, the answer is quite telling. “Bold and stately – Nehru, Malcolm X – these men were confident in where they came from yet still looked the part of the sharp leader. They were cultural translators in a sense”. It’s no surprise Ishi’s main product boasts the iconic “Nehru” collar, a term coined by the leader’s signature jackets which were christened as high-fashion chic in the most coveted powerhouses of couture decades ago. “I have a designer in-house to take care of that side of things,” he laughs, referring to the team who helped him fine tune his single introductory product, the men’s vest, as a crucial part of his simple yet potent business model. The women’s version was added to the lineup just a few weeks ago, and he says the brand plans to dip its toes into the lucrative pond of kids wear, all the way down to infant swaddle blankets. 

Patel doesn’t seem to have time for much besides his ingrained commitments, as there are several. Aside from running Ishi Vest with co-founder Jackie Mahendra, he is pursuing a Masters in Urban Planning at the University of Illinois at Chicago. Patel also helped start Chicago Votes, a non-profit dedicated to engaging, educating, and training a young generation of leaders in the political arena. In addition, he works at UIC, helping to develop a department for Diaspora Studies, which will focus on immigration, war, and climate change.

“I don’t want to bring a child into a world with so much messed up in it,” states Patel. With so many noteworthy causes on his resume and plenty more promising projects in the works, his conscience can rest assured that he is doing his part in making that happen. 

Saba Ali is a writer, blogger and the founder of Style By Design – Image Consulting (SBD), a venture specializing in style and fashion consulting, career image consultation, and overall personal design. She has worked with clients from all walks of life, and has been featured in various publications. Find her work on her blog, Facebook, and on Instagram 

Designer Snapshot: CL

The footwear that catches your gaze from far distances away? The one no A-list event is complete without? One of the first and only fashion powerhouses to attempt to patent a color vs. an idea or signature style?

Perhaps the most sought after shoe on the planet, Christian Louboutin's unique and sometimes controversial designs are highly crafted works of art in wearable form. Instantly recognizable with a signature flash of its red sole, the shoe is an enigma amongst other designer creations and has celebrities, socialites, and shoe-lovers constantly abuzz.

A problematic student who was expelled three times, then ran away from home at age 12 to never return was destined for greatness when he started drawing shoe sketches in his formative early teens.  Still notorious for altercations as an adult today, he defends his four to six-inch creations with unapologetic statements such as "heels should be painful" and "if you can't walk in them, don't wear them". Clearly, the French cobbler has no qualms about the shoes he designs with the goal that they simply be "like jewels". While such sentiments have caused an uproar in feminist circles, the blase attitude towards comfort ("I'm concerned with comfort. But I don't want to have this evoked in my design") is perhaps what has led to the infamous production of the most unwearable shoe ever.

The Louboutin Ballet Heel. These would look stellar right above my fireplace.

Here's a Quick Overview On A Few Of the Most Sought-After Styles...

The exaggerated platform on the Daffodiles is perhaps the most popular and consistently revamped style - one of the basics he constantly reworks, adding crystals, pops of color, and interesting patterns on the signature design. Beyonce Knowles made headlines when she sported the Strass version uber-casually courtside with hubby Jay-Z at Madison Square Garden. She has also been spotted in the Geometric, Bleu Saphir, and basic black versions. Don't be intimidated by the height. If the size is right, these can be quite sturdy and comfortable. Well....more so than they look!

The Daffodile

The Bianca is a more classic design available in more than one height, the 140 mm being the most popular. This style also comes in a variety of colors and finishes, including our favorite, the patent nude as demonstrated here by Nicole Richie:

The Bianca

Just got a pedi that demands to be showcased? There is no better way than the Lady Peeps. Another standout design  available in studded, patent, solid, embroidered, printed, animal printed, textured.....these are the blueprint to many a Louboutin fantasy....

Lady Peeps

For a peeptoe with Daffodile-ique flair....we have the Lady Highness. Madonna seems to have taken a liking to this particular pair....and it's been the archetype for a particular edgy Eastern design in stores now. The Dragon tattoo is said to evoke the elements of power and courage. Spot-on.

In an effort to build a wardrobe that consists of certain key pieces of timeless quality and style, Louboutins are well worth the investment. If you have ever admired, tried on, or thought about buying a pair of these beauties....here is some insight into the exciting yet daunting task.

You Are Not Just Paying For the Brand Name - As with any designer piece, far more than status or brand recognition, you are paying for a high quality shoe. Crafted with the utmost care and precision, they are built to last. Top notch leathers, state-of-the-art design, construction, and aesthetic promise a superior shoe wearing experience, guaranteed. The brand is certainly worth the one-time splurge if you go for a classic pair that you can wear with anything and everything. 

They Are Hard to Come By - There are only a few retailers out there that feature them: Saks 5th Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Barney's, Bergdorf Goodman, and select Nordstrom Salons. Net-A-Porter.com and of course ChristianLouboutin.com offer them as well, but if there was ever a purchase you needed to try on in person to get a true idea for fit, feel, and overall effect (we discuss why below), it is this. Of course if you like to live on the edge, you can always buy them on eBay. But please don't. Wear these instead:

Do Your Homework - Because of their immense popularity,  this means doing a check on inventory at your local retailers mentioned above. Call ahead of time and ask specific questions about stock, latest shipments, styles, and sizes (be sure to specify CHRISTIAN Louboutin...otherwise you may get connected to Louis Vuitton handbags). You may be able to find and drool over your favorite style online, but there's a chance it's sold out in your size or not available at all at your local store. Because these top-notch retailers pride themselves on service, it's easy to build a relationship with a sales associate and keep in touch in order to ensure you are included in the next round of distribution.

Buy A Size Up! Take our word for it - these are perhaps the tiniest shoes on the market. Because it's an investment, you want to be absolutely positive the fit is on-point. A size and a half up may not hurt either. But your usual size definitely will.

They streeeeeetch! Don't buy TOO much larger than your current size. Even if you're tempted because they're out of your size (remember, only one to one-and-a-half sizes up from your usual....confused? See the tip above). The shoe will feel a bit tighter, even when you buy a size up. The rule of thumb is, even if they feel snug...you should still be able to wiggle your toes in them. Otherwise, go up a size. Wear them around the house, break them in. They will conform to your feet. We promise.

Seal That Ruby Red Sole, As It Will Get Scuffed - There's nothing sadder than a scratched up, lacerated Loubi sole. Retailers sometimes provide this additional service for a small cost, and it's a service that's completely worth it, not to mention necessary. It will run you around 3-4% of the total price of the shoe. Really, no need to think twice.  If your retailer can't do it,  they can usually refer you to a trusted local cobbler with experience in sealing these babies. We did once speak to an associate who refused to do them, citing heal breakage due to the deleveling of the heel to the platform....but we didn't listen. Don't wear without protection! And please, steer clear of the tempation to use common household items to self service your new "jewels"  (this includes clear nail polish. Yes, we have heard the horrific tales of heart wrenching abuse out there).  Your brand-spanking-new sammy red bottoms deserve better than that. 

                                                            

      Not hot! Put that foot down

Oh and the mystery shoe in the header? The Christian Louboutin Dafoura from the Spring/Summer 2013 collection. Available at select retailers mentioned above.

Written by Saba Ali - stylist, writer, founder and sole-proprietor of SBD - Image Consulting

Feel free to comment, provide feedback, or follow! Or email me with questions or concerns at  stylebydesign.sbd@gmail.com