Style By Design (SBD): September 2013

Monday, September 16, 2013

Fashion Week SS14: A Closer Look Into Spring's New Style Collective

Fashion week has wrapped up in a whirling New York minute, and the highly anticipated Spring/Summer 2014 ( (or #ss14 if you speak hashtag) collections are making their way into the mainstream psyche as designers, models, bloggers, socialites, actresses, and minions gathered for what is perhaps the most anticipated event all year.

A few concepts spotted early on in the week drew inspiration from confection in blush pastels (rose, lilac, butter) and stark white in women's wear. The soft colors were balanced with strong asymmetrical lines in silhouette from powerhouses such as Alexander Wang, Victoria Beckham, Tadashi Shoji, and Prabal Gurung. On the contrary, last season's statement patterns grew bolder in all their animal, tribal, floral, and pinstriped glory on soft, minimalist shapes at Diane Von Furstenburg, Donna Karen, and Tracy Reese.

The overall verdict? Styles seem to be drawing consistently from last season's spring collection, yet pleasingly topping their predecessors with added oomph in graphic prints, structured cuts, and modern aesthetic. This was embodied best in the prevalence the full, flouncy skirt, which made a stunning comeback (in varying lengths) at collections across the board, from department store favorite Alice-and-Olivia to Spanish-darling designer Delpozo.

Delpozo

3.1 Philip Lim

The full skirt is also a key example of a startling shift. The continuing movement away from the ultra feminine, bodycon apparel of the past seems to be here to stay. Cool-girl uniform master Philip Lim stunned with boxy shapes orchestrated in rock and fire prints as well as subtle embellishments, a collection so dazzling in itself that the models were sent down the runway with shades, wet-looking hair, and barely-there makeup. Lim is just one successful example of the widespread appeal of a more restrained approach to fashion, where something is being left to the imagination. What started out as a natural shift last year due to the see-saw nature of the industry has been fully embraced, and is now being recognized as a conscious international effort on part of several designers to to tap into the infamously conservative emerging markets of Southeast Asia and the Middle East. One look at Valentino, now owned by Qatari royalty, and it is apparent that the brand has traded in skin for lush fabrics and demure necklines which are equal, if not greater, parts glamorous than their skimpier predecessors.

DKNY frontwoman Rita Ora

Other luxury brands are trying out voluminous yet structured shapes, not just with large winter coats, but in fresh spring concoctions of roomy knitwear and boxy jackets as was apparent all over the Spring/Summer 14 collections. While lush, full silhouettes in heavy, rich fabrics were the epitome of high-end couture for fall, the notion is just as relevant on the street-style side for spring. DKNY's 25th anniversary collection, featuring large logo'd nods to decades past, as well as a closing strut by trend setting pop starlette Rita Ora, epitomized this notion with tailored staples, billowing trenches, and clean neutrals that were young, edgy, and anything but dowdy. Such conservative approaches as seen in menswear, grunge, and throwback 90's looks like DKNY's (think of the consistently popular hi-tech, roomy sweatshirt) prove that covering it up is quickly becoming mainstream. Blame it on the comfort and ease of movement, those with their eyes on the prize of conservative yet lucrative fashion markets, or a natural progression from bodycon, the restrainted aesthetic seems to be here to stay, and the all too pleasing #SS14 collection further proves across the board that this is the case.

90's Menswear at DKNY

Wednesday, September 4, 2013

Oh Menswear, How I Love Thee. Let Us Count the Ways...

When I was a tween, I favored preppy button-ups, baggy rolled up jeans, vests, and slouchy V-necks. When my own closet fell short, I unapologetically dove into my brother's (much to his dismay) collection of henleys, tees, and sweatshirts...and not just because they were modest. Back then, I wasn't actually sure why I adored them so much. I remember very fondly wearing a mechanic shirt in a swampwater-green hue, complete with arm patches emblazened with random petroleum blurbage. I wore it until I bore holes in the elbows in college...and this was before I patched it. There was just something effortlessly cool about these unconstricted, non-girly silhouettes I was so drawn to.

It wasn't until recently, as a grown adult that I realized WHY I was so smitten. There is something remarkably untrying, something understatedly confident about a gal in dude's clothing. It's like subconsciously flipping the bird to all those ridiculous expectations society has of women - to be ultra feminine, to wear confining shapes, makeup, hair did, everything did, much like Coco Chanel with the invention of her relaxed suit in an era of corsets and ultra-femme looks. It's not really caring about being ladylike. I'm not talking about being androgynously masculine, the goal is never to try to LOOK like a guy...rather, it's to bring in masculine elements which, surprisingly enough, highlight femininity. As much as I enjoy dressing up and looking "pretty" on occasion, menswear allows me to "hide" in my outfit in a subtle and edgier way, without having to wear a potato sack or a burqa to protest the societal norms of curling my hair, donning a skirt, or...wearing pink.

Real life menswear - strong and effortless

For all these reasons, the Kurt Cobain era of "Smells Like Teen Spirit" chic holds a sweet, nostalgic spot in my heart. My own clean, not-so-grungy take on grunge was an everyday version of menswear that was realistic for me...because unfortunately, I was never invited to as many black tie galas, where I could sport my pinstripe tuxedos and slicked back hair, as I would have liked. Sad face.

Neo-Grunge

Plaid with Boyfriend Jeans

Docs. Nuff said.

Already an avid menswear and grunge fan when it flourished in the 90's, the trend allowed me to wear my flannels, non-tight jeans, and Doc Martens with reckless abandon. With the reemergence of tartan, combat boots, and "picnic tablecloth" print these days, I'm particularly excited...and I just can't hide it.

If you've ever thought about diving into any form of menswear but weren't sure how, here is a guideline to keep in mind - be sure makeup and hair can hang by keeping them ladylike yet strong (red lips, winged liner, sleek but soft hair), and add feminine accessories as a foil to the hard apparel (think dainty necklaces, chains, charm bracelets, pointy pumps).